Panama – Ultimate Travel Guide

Panama

A beautiful country that hasn’t been too affected by tourism apart from Bocas Del Toro. The majority of the country is dry, cheap to travel, and the land of cowboys. Do yourself a favor and explore this awesome country! Their Panama Balboas equal 1 USD so it is easy to keep track of what you spend. I again used shuttles to get around and took a shuttle from Bocas to Boquete to Santa Catalina and back again using Hello Travel Shuttles. This company also helps you with the immigration process.

Bocas Del Toro

The most touristy spot in Panama. Known for its good waves, hotels on the water, and party scene. Prices are similar to Costa Rica and the most expensive of all Panama. To get around here you hail a taxi which are shared with everyone. You let them know where you are headed and each person pays a base rate. There is one bank on the island so you don’t have to worry about bringing a lot of cash over.

Stay

-Karma on the Water: The first place I stayed at on Bocas. A few minutes drive off the main road in an area called Saigon. Saigon is known as the “hood” of Bocas mainly because it is occupied by the poorer people on the island. The locals were very friendly and the area was quiet. The owners are a couple from California and they also employ a few friendly locals. The night I arrived they had a pizza night making homemade pizza for everyone. There is only one dorm room with 4 bunk beds, one private room, and one big shared bathroom. Because the house is built on the water the flooring is pretty loose and anytime someone would walk in the dorm room the beds would shake. Beyond that this is an awesome place to stay. They have hammocks on the porch and there are a couple of docks around that local kids will fish off of in the evening. I also went with the owners surfing one morning out to Carenero Island.

-Skully’s House: This is where I volunteered for a month while in Bocas. Skully’s is located near Playa Paunch and right on the water. Skully’s is a hostel, bar, restaurant, ATV rental company, and they also have a surf shop. I worked in reception mainly with the hostel but helping with the ATVs as well. Skully’s is built to resemble a pirate ship as Steve the owner has a pegleg and they stuck to that theme. This is mainly a hostel for surfers as Paunch is a couple minute walk away and Playa Bluff is maybe a 30 min walk. Skully’s also has a pool, beach chairs in the sand, and a pool table. They occasionally have live music, bbq dinners, and other events.

Eat

-Skully’s: Try their chicken wraps, burgers, and smoothies.

-Café Del Mar: A good spot to go for smoothie bowls and right downtown.

-La Cantine: Awesome gelato! Worth a trip to town.

-Super Gourmet Deli: Such a good find! They make sandwiches and have pre-made salads fresh everyday with chickpeas, quinoa, and even kale. They also make delicious brownies, quiche, and their own dried fruits. There is a market for your fruits and veggies but also basics that you might not find at other markets in town. To be honest Bocas is not a place where you will find fresh produce and this grocery store is a welcome change! Located downtown across from Puerto De Ferry.

Do

– Take a day trip to Bastimentos: If you go to the boat dock in town you can get a boat to Red Frog Beach or Old Bank. I would recommend going to Old Bank first and walking around town and then grabbing another boat to Red Frog Beach through the mangroves. These prices will be more expensive as the locations are further. (I think i paid 6 Balboa) At Red Frog Beach you can sometimes surf if the waves are decent. I set up camp at the Selina bar and enjoyed their music, free WiFi, and some pineapple smoothies. There really isn’t much to do here other than have a beach day and it is one of the nicest beaches in Bocas. Also keep in mind when leaving the island boat drivers want more than one or two people in their boat before going to Bocas so leave with a group or you might be waiting for a while.

-Bluff Beach: Bluff beach is a beach where waves are very powerful and break close to shore. This is a hot spot for surfers but because of the strong currents and powerful waves it is not recommended to swim. The sand here is very tan and it is beautiful at sunset. Many people rent bicycles from town to bike here which is difficult as a lot of the road is sand. There is a mini van from town that goes every 30 minutes and I would recommend walking one way from Skully’s, having lunch, and taking the mini van back. There is a restaurant at the very end before the gate to Skully’s ATV trails that is right on the beach and has some good food.

-Go for a walk on the Air Strip: Start at Karma on the water and walk left down the road (if you are facing the water). There is a little trail here and there will be some boards you can walk on if the water is high. You will be walking through local’s backyards and they can point you in the right direction if you are not sure. Eventually you will cross a small stream and then will be on the airstrip. This is completely legal to do just keep an eye out for planes. At the end of the airstrip there are some mangroves that are great for snorkeling around. I personally didn’t do this because I was by myself and didn’t know what I might find. If you have a couple people with you I would give it a go as there is supposed to be some beautiful marine life living here.

-Visit Carenaro Island: Walk around the island in an hour, relax on the beach, and have lunch at Bibis. You can take a boat from the main island  directly to Aqua Lounge for 1 Balboa. From there walk towards Bibis and hang out for a while on the beach nearby. I would not recommend walking the rest of the island by yourself as there are some homeless people and literally no one else around. I did do it by myself and had no issues but was on edge.

-Visit Bocas Del Drago & Playa Estrella: You can catch a mini bus from town or Tony’s Market for 2 Balboa one way. This road is hilly so I would not recommend biking. Once you arrive you will walk left facing the water and follow a pathway to Playa Estrella. Personally I liked this area better where you are dropped off as it is less touristy. Playa Estrella means starfish beach which it used to be until tourists started touching the starfish and the majority were relocated. A good spot to go snorkeling and have a beach day.

-Run or bike to Paunch and Playa Bluff: One of my favorite things to do when living at Skully’s was to run to Playa Bluff. The road is pretty quiet and sandy and right on the water.

-Rent an ATV and take on the Flying Pirate’s Jungle Trails: This is the top activity to do in Bocas. Steve and his team cleared out miles of trail to take ATVs through and you can go through water, over logs, down monkey trails, past ruins, to secret beaches, and blue lagoons. Definitely worth your money and you get a free beer upon return. Check out the Wall of Pain before you go, drive safe, and have fun!

Boquete

Boquete is a well-established mountain town known for its coffee farms, volcano tours, and cooler temps. Boquete reminds me a lot of La Fortuna in Costa Rica and Nuwara Eliya in Sri Lanka and offers similar tours. Because I had already experience the hot springs volcano hike in La Fortuna and the tea plantation tours in Sri Lanka, I decided to just enjoy the scenery from doing my own exploring.

Stay

-Bambuda Castle: A hostel built to look like a castle on a hill over tea plantations. One of the nicer hostels I have been in with a beautiful porch, pools, separate kitchen, and family dinners. Take a walk around the area and explore the tea fields. The castle is located a ways from town so buy your groceries before arriving. You can choose to pay for a family dinner if you wish and they are delicious!

-Buena Vista Boquete: The second time I passed through Boquete I stayed here as Bambuda was a bit too much of a party hostel. People had been coming in and out of the room the whole night and were pretty loud so I decided to find a new location. Buena Vista is a newer hostel right on the hill and not far from downtown. Super comfy beds and pillows and I only shared the room with one other person both nights. They have a lounge area with a TV, breakfast area, and a rooftop. The owners are super friendly and helpful and even drove me into town the next morning when my shuttle failed to pick me up.

Eat

-Sugar and Spice: towards the end of town and home to some amazing pastries and quiche.

-La Viuda del Cafe: Try their Geisha coffee.

-El Tur Ko: Little Gyro truck just down the road from Buena Vista. Delish!

-Kotowa Chocolate Victoria: Gourmet chocolates and coffee shop.

Do

-Go to the Farmer’s Market on Tuesday 9-12: Buy your authentic Panamanian scarves, bags, and gifts. Awesome food and fresh fruits and veg – even jackfruit!

-Check out the flower gardens across the bridge (Mi Jardin) and go to Fresas Cafe.

Santa Catalina

Santa Catalina is a quiet small town where people go to surf, dive, snorkel, or visit Coiba National Park. There is no party scene and no bars and the local teens dance to music in the street on the weekends for entertainment. The days are quiet and during the afternoons you can find people at the Fruiteria grabbing a smoothie. Surfers are only here to surf and only take breaks to sleep and eat-not usually leaving their accommodation. Chickens walk in the small mini mart to the left of the Fruiteria and dogs come and go from hostels grabbing a drink and bite of food where they can. Evenings are filled with the sounds of cicadas and horses trotting down the main street. Local kids are out lassoing their horse and returning it home bareback. Older men too use horses for transport in town and it’s a good change from cars doing burnouts in more touristy areas. There are two mini marts in town, one fruit and veg shop, and a handful of restaurants. There is a main beach at the end of the road in town which is less windy than Esteros. Esteros is a beginner/intermediate beach break that is not ideal to go to at high tide. There is a river that will get at least knee deep you have to wade through and the high tide will not leave you any sand to relax on. The rest of the coast is pretty rocky and has small cliffs that are great to watch the surf from. There is not a bank here so bring cash for all your expenses.

Stay

-Hostal Surfers Paradise: They do not have any online booking system and didn’t respond to their phone or email so I booked one night at Bodhi Hostel and planned on visiting the next day to make a booking here. This place is the definition of surfer’s paradise. A two story house with multiple dorm rooms. I stayed in a room for $15 a night with two other beds and a couple more upstairs. The room is open air with a couple of fans and a view of the water. They have a restaurant for breakfast and lunch and a communal kitchen if you want to make your own meals. There is a stairway to the water and you can paddle right out to the lineup. There was a max of 15 people out when I was there and almost everyone was staying at the hostel. Surf is at high tide as the break has a lot of large rocks that will pop up as the tide drops. They have a couple awesome dogs and hammocks to relax in. Everyone meets up around sunset on the deck to have a beer and enjoy the views. Located a 20 minute walk from town.

-Bodhi Hostel: I stayed here my first night and then ended up working for a couple nights as the owner had to go to Panama City for business. Very modern hostel that feels like a home. Two private rooms and 6 dorm beds with AC, fully furnished kitchen to use, and a big porch with hammocks.

Eat

-Mama Ines: Restaurant overlooking Playa Esteros and open all day.

-Surfers Paradise: Really good casado con pollo.

-Gelato: There’s an Italian Gelato shop between town and Playa Estero run by an Italian man that makes 4 flavors everyday and they are amazing! Try their chocolate and mango!

Do

-Surf La Punta and Playa Estero: La Punta is an A-frame wave if its big or a right point break. Playa Estero is a beach break. Both are fun waves but Estero is more for beginners and lessons.

-Enjoy the sunset at Surfers Paradise: Visit even if you aren’t a guest, have a beer, and take in the view.

I hope that you make a visit to this amazing country and enjoy the food, waves, culture, and friendly locals. Safe travels!